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Cape Braai
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Line of origin · from 1658

Cape Malay

Cape Malay cooking is the cooking of the descendants of people brought to the Cape in bondage from 1658 onwards — from the Indonesian archipelago, the Indian coast, Ceylon, Madagascar and East Africa — and it brought the spices by which South African food is recognised.

Signature: long dashes

Bobotie, sosaties and koesisters appear on every recipe site. Where they come from rarely does.

Brought to the fire

Spices, the sweet-sour handling of meat, marinades, the skewer.

What came with it

  • Turmeric, cardamom, fennel, anise, clove, cinnamon — as a system, not as single ingredients
  • Fruit with meat: apricot with lamb, raisins in a mince bake
  • Vinegar as a carrier for spice, not only as a preservative
  • The marinated skewer — sate becomes sosatie

The Dutch East India Company set up a victualling station at the Cape in 1652. From 1658 the first enslaved people were brought there — from Java, Sulawesi, Bengal, the Malabar Coast, Ceylon, Madagascar and eastern Africa. They were taken by force, not recruited; that is where this line begins, and it belongs in the telling.

What grew out of it is not a copy of a Southeast Asian cuisine but something of its own: the spices from there, the techniques of the Dutch households the people were made to work in, and whatever was available at the Cape. Bobotie is the clearest case — a European mince bake with a seasoning that comes from no European kitchen.

After emancipation in 1834 many freed people moved into the Bo-Kaap. In 1957 the apartheid government declared the neighbourhood a Malay group area and forced everyone else out. Eat in the Bo-Kaap today and you are eating in a place whose population was fixed by law twice over. That is part of why food carries so much weight there.

A word on the name. Cape Malay is historically inexact — the roots lie in Indonesia rather than Malaysia, in Aceh on Sumatra, in Sulawesi and Java. Under apartheid the term was used to classify people officially, and nobody classified that way chose it. The South African cook and historian Cass Abrahams placed the cuisine as food from Africa in 1995 and was the first to name its creolised nature in public — including the Khoekhoe influences that had been written out of the record. The name still stands here, because it is what people search for; what it hides stands next to it.

Who is writing here

This site is written in Cape Town, but not from the Bo-Kaap and not from inside this community. What stands here comes from the sources linked below and from what you see while shopping and eating — not from lived heritage. Where one source tells it differently from another, that is said.

The recipes on this line

Bobotie in its dish, cut open, with the golden egg topping on top
Olivier Lemoine · CC BY-SA 4.0

Meat

Bobotie

Spiced beef mince with chutney, raisins and soaked bread, baked under a golden egg custard. If South Africa has a national dish, this is it.

Total time
1 hr 30 min
Serves
6
Equipment
Oven
A gatsby filled with calamari and chips, cut open at a market stall
HelenOnline · CC BY-SA 3.0

Meat

Gatsby

A whole baguette packed with vinegar-soaked chips, meat and hot sauce, cut into six. Not a sandwich for one — a meal for half the street.

Total time
55 min
Serves
6
Equipment
Cast-iron pan

Fish

Smoorsnoek

Smoked snoek flaked and braised with onion, tomato and potato, then folded through rice. A leftovers dish that beats the original.

Total time
45 min
Serves
6
Equipment
Cast-iron pan
Oxtail with potatoes and carrots in a cast-iron three-legged pot over the fire
Stoutseun · CC BY-SA 4.0

Meat · Stertpotjie

Cape Malay oxtail potjie

Oxtail with red wine, cumin and curry, four hours in a three-legged pot. Four hours, three and a half of which ask nothing of you.

Total time
5 hr
Serves
8
Heat of the coals
hot
Equipment
Potjie
Waterblommetjies in the water — Cape pondweed where it grows
Dwergenpaartje · CC BY-SA 4.0

Meat

Waterblommetjiebredie

Lamb shoulder slow-cooked with the flower spikes of Cape pondweed, white wine and plenty of lemon. The one dish that exists only in the Western Cape, and only in winter.

Total time
3 hr 15 min
Serves
8
Equipment
Potjie
Whole fish over hot coals, the skin striped by the grid
PattayaPatrol · CC BY-SA 4.0

Fish · Snoek

Snoek with apricot glaze

Butterflied snoek in a hinged grid, basted with a glaze of apricot jam, garlic and butter. On the West Coast this is not a recipe idea, it is an institution.

Total time
30 min
Serves
6
Heat of the coals
medium
Equipment
Hinged grid
Sosaties skewers over an open fire on a simple grid
Dumbassman · CC BY-SA 4.0

Meat · Sosaties

Sosaties with apricot

Lamb skewers in a curried apricot marinade, left overnight. The Cape Malay inheritance at the fire — sweet, sour and spiced at once.

Total time
12 hr 47 min
Serves
4
Heat of the coals
hot
Equipment
Grid
Plaited, syrup-soaked koeksisters on a plate
Arnold Goodway · CC BY-SA 2.0

Sweet

Koeksisters

Plaited strips of dough, deep-fried and plunged straight into ice-cold spiced syrup. Crisp outside, dripping inside — the temperature difference is the whole recipe.

Total time
1 hr 40 min
Serves
12
Equipment
Cast-iron pan

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