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Fish · In Afrikaans: Snoek

Snoek with apricot glaze

Butterflied snoek in a hinged grid, basted with a glaze of apricot jam, garlic and butter. On the West Coast this is not a recipe idea, it is an institution.

Snoek is neither a pike nor strictly a barracuda but Thyrsites atun — a predator of the cold Benguela current off the west coast. It is traditionally butterflied and cooked over an open fire, often right where it was landed.

Prep
15 min
On the fire
15 min
Serves
6
Effort
medium

How hot

Medium

You can hold your hand over the grid for 6 seconds · ≈ 175–200 °C

Every coal stage explained →

Which wood

Sekelbos

sweet, aromatic

More on this wood →

When it goes on

The main round

The actual food: wors, chicken, fish, skewers.

Equipment: Hinged grid · Foil

This line

The three-legged pot, sausage as a way of keeping meat, bread without an oven.

Fresh at the Western Cape April · May · June · July

Method

  1. Keep the coals gentle

    Fish wants medium coals — six seconds on the hand test. Over full heat the sugary glaze burns long before the fish is done.

  2. Prepare the fish

    Pat the butterflied snoek dry and lay it skin side down on a sheet of foil. Season firmly with salt and pepper.

  3. Cook the glaze

    Melt the butter in a small pot and soften the garlic in it for a minute without colouring. Add the chilli, then stir in jam, chutney and stock and simmer gently for five minutes. Off the heat, stir in coriander and lemon juice.

  4. First side

    Put the fish and its foil into the hinged grid, flesh side up, and baste generously. Cook for eight to ten minutes, basting two or three more times.

  5. Turn it

    Once the flesh has gone white and opaque, turn and baste again. Three to five minutes to finish. Pulling the foil away for the last minutes gives more smoke — and risks the fish sticking to the grid.

  6. Serve

    Tip it straight out of the grid onto a board and spoon over what is left of the glaze. Serve with thinly sliced red onion and celery dressed in oil and lemon.

Tips

  • The foil is not a substitute for skill, it is a substitute for luck. Snoek falls apart when turned, and with foil underneath it does not.
  • Always put fish skin side down first. The skin is the insulation that keeps the flesh moist.
  • Leftovers become snoek pâté the next day — flaked and mixed with cream cheese, lemon and onion.

Snoek over an open fire is one of the few dishes Cape Town and the surrounding country agree on. The fish comes out of the cold Benguela current, is oily enough for a fire and cheap enough that nobody treats it as a delicacy.

The glaze is where visitors hesitate: jam, on fish. It works because the sugar caramelises and pushes back against a very assertive fish. Put it on too early and you get black patches — which is why this calls for medium coals, not full heat.

One more thing: snoek is full of fine bones. That is part of it, and it is why it is served butterflied rather than filleted.

Where it comes from

Where the word comes from
Afrikaans, from Dutch · Literally „pike“ The name is wrong: *Thyrsites atun* is not a pike but a snake mackerel.

The name is a misunderstanding that has held for three hundred years. Dutch sailors named the fish after what they knew — snoek, pike — although Thyrsites atun has nothing to do with a pike. It is a predator of the cold Benguela current, fast, lean and full of bones.

For the fishing towns of the West Coast it is more than a fish. The snoek run is what makes the season there: when it runs the boats run, and when it does not, they do not. Catches swing widely from year to year, and worry about declining stocks has grown louder in recent years.

When it runs is where most guides get it wrong. At the Cape snoek is traditionally a winter fish; the old fishermen’s rule names the months without an r — May, June, July, August — and the sources put the run at roughly April to July.

The apricot glaze is younger than the fish and comes out of Afrikaans cooking: jam, butter, a little garlic. It goes on late, or the sugar burns before the flesh is done.

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Braai pie

Total time
40 min
Serves
6
Heat of the coals
medium
Equipment
Hinged grid