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Cape Braai

Monograph

Shisa nyama

Shisa nyama is isiZulu for burn the meat, and it names the public form of braai that grew out of township butcheries: you choose raw meat at the counter, have it weighed, and have it cooked over the coals. It is the most widespread way of braaing in the country.

Braai stands made from halved oil drums on the pavement under corrugated-iron roofs, smoke drifting across the street
HelenOnline · CC BY-SA 3.0

Who is writing here

Nobody here is writing from a township. What is on this page comes from the sources linked below — two of them South African — and from watching as a guest, not from lived experience. The history of this form of braai is bound up with apartheid and forced removal; it is named here and not dressed up.

The word

Shisa is isiZulu for to burn or to make hot, nyama is meat. Together: burn the meat. The spelling moves around — shisa nyama, chisa nyama, chesa nyama, shisanyama — and it all means the same thing.

The word describes the form, not the dishes. What ends up on the plate is usually far older.

Words

Where the form comes from

It grew out of a business problem. Township butchers wanted to move more meat over the weekend and started cooking it on the spot over coals and selling it ready to eat. The sales trick became a meeting place.

There is no founding year. The accounts agree on the starting point — butchery plus weekend — but give no date. They also agree on what came of it: places where people from every walk of life turn up.

How it works

  1. Choose at the counter

    The meat lies out raw, the way it does at a butcher — because it is one. You pick by cut, not by dish.

  2. Weighed and paid

    It is priced by weight. That is why a shisa nyama costs less than a restaurant serving the same amount of meat.

  3. Onto the grid

    Either someone cooks it for you or you stand there yourself. Both are normal, and they cost differently.

  4. Sides with it

    Pap and chakalaka are standard, not accessories. And something to drink.

  5. Eat it there

    At long tables, often standing. Taking it away works, but it is not the idea.

Which cuts

Typically the fatty and the cheap: ribs, marrow bones, offal in caul fat, wors, chicken pieces. Not for want of better, but because fat is what works over open coals — it keeps the meat moist and it makes the smoke.

What rarely turns up at a garden braai is often the centre here. Skilpadjies and marrow bones are two of them.

Skilpadjies · Marrow bones · Netvet / caul fat

What it has to do with a braai in the garden — and what it does not

What they share is the fire and almost everything on it. The difference is the place: a braai is private and gets planned, a shisa nyama is public and simply happens. You do not arrange to meet there, you go there.

The second difference is who does what. At a braai the host makes the fire and everybody brings meat; at a shisa nyama the fire belongs to the house and everybody brings only themselves.

Music and the weekend belong to it — not as an extra, but as part of the thing.

Watch this

Linked, not embedded — opening this page contacts no outside server. The time marks jump straight to the moment.

The dishes

Chakalaka in the pot: peppers, carrot and beans in tomato sauce
philipp from cape town · CC BY 2.0

Side

Chakalaka

A hot vegetable relish with curry, carrot, peppers and baked beans in tomato sauce. Eaten warm, at room temperature or cold, and served next to the pap rather than on the grid.

Total time
40 min
Serves
6
Equipment
Cast-iron pan
A plate of pap with red tomato sauce, pumpkin and spinach
thomas from Mannheim · CC BY-SA 2.0

Sauce

Sheba

A slowly reduced tomato and onion sauce that belongs to pap the way butter belongs to bread. An hour on a low flame is all it needs — but it really does need that.

Total time
1 hr 15 min
Serves
8
Umngqusho: cooked samp with sugar beans in a bowl
Jon Mountjoy · CC BY 2.0

Side

Umngqusho

Stamped maize and sugar beans, boiled for two hours until everything collapses into something creamy. One pot, two ingredients, and the whole table is fed.

Total time
10 hr 15 min
Serves
6
Equipment
Potjie
A vetkoek split open and filled with curried mince
NJR ZA · CC BY-SA 3.0

Bread · Vetkoek met maalvleis

Vetkoek with curried mince

Yeast dough deep-fried until golden, split open and filled with mild curried mince. Crisp outside, airy inside — the street food every South African knows.

Total time
1 hr 10 min
Serves
10
Equipment
Cast-iron pan
Split marrow bones, roasted, with herb salsa and bread
Прикли · CC BY 4.0

Meat · Murgbene

Marrow bones

Beef marrow bones split lengthways over hot coals until the marrow bubbles, with parsley salsa and toasted bread. Twenty minutes for the richest starter a fire can produce.

Total time
35 min
Serves
4
Heat of the coals
hot
Equipment
Grid

Meat

Skilpadjies

Seasoned lamb's liver wrapped in caul fat and cooked crisp over medium coals. The name means little tortoises, and it describes exactly what ends up on the grid.

Total time
47 min
Serves
6
Heat of the coals
medium
Equipment
Hinged grid
Mielies for the braai, husked and ready for the grid
Zs6hz · CC BY-SA 4.0

Side · Mielies

Mielies off the fire

Corn cobs, first cooked in foil and then charred open over the coals, with herb or curry butter. Foil first, then straight onto the coals: that is what makes it soft inside and dark outside.

Total time
32 min
Serves
8
Heat of the coals
gentle
Equipment
Grid